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8.05.2006

bartolotta, one of a kind.

Paul Bartolotta is a very celebrated chef, and his seafood-centric Italian restaurant at Wynn on the Strip is, likewise, a very celebrated destination. But no matter the richness of the resort or the dining room or the Midwest legend’s reputation, it all comes down to the food. At Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare, the food is delivered with simple elegance, in a manner reflecting the chef’s reverent respect of the region he’s trying to present to his fortunate diners.

Sure, it was named one of Esquire’s best new restaurants in 2005 and snagged the AAA Four
Diamond Award in 2006. And it earned Bartolotta another James Beard Award nomination,
even though he already won one in 1994. As grand as these accolades might be, and as
spectacular as the restaurant strikes you as you are lead through gold and rich red decor,
past columns and huge urns and down a dramatic spiral staircase to a light, plush dining room
overlooking serene waters, remember that this is a house built by a guy who loves what the
Italian seas have to offer. Yes, the place is a bank-buster, but it’s worth it with the consolation
that Bartolotta offers one of the most unique dining experiences in the city and an authentic
and creative twist on Italian food that the non-traveling American might never know.

Fish is the thing here, and it's sold whole by the gram. Seafood is delivered fresh daily, and
you don’t have to believe it because your server is going to bring you those whole, fresh fish
and shellfish on a giant silver tray and describe each of them in detail. The offerings change
frequently but sometimes include black striped bream, sea bass, turbot, spiny lobster, purple
snapper or John Dory. The preferred preparation is to roast the fish whole with a select few
seasonings, such as a white wine and clam broth, in order to bring out the subtle flavors, and
then serve them with a duo of simple but tasty sauces.

The menu is divided up in the traditional Italian manner, so you can run through your antipasti and pasta courses or mix and match. Antipasti selections are incredible and inventive, such as grilled cuttlefish with langoustines in a slightly minty tomato broth, or parmesan custard with basil, leeks and asparagus. Pasta dishes can be with or without seafood, including a creamy potato gnocci or a shellfish-laden risotto.

The presence of a restaurant like Bartolotta, and its success among the other fine options at
Wynn Las Vegas, only proves the evolution of the Vegas dining scene. A world-class, one-of-a-kind meal like this could only make sense in a one-of-a-kind place like ours.