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9.14.2008

t-bones chophouse.

Station Casinos has proven it is dedicated to the steakhouse. Starting with Austin's at the Texas Station and continuing with the Charcoal Room at Santa Fe Station and Hank's at the Green Valley Ranch Resort, these guys have clearly made the decision to upgrade the typical dining offerings at your friendly neighborhood casino. And with the Red Rock Resort, they broke the mold in off-the-Strip niceness, an endeavor that translates into the property's restaurants as well. The crowning achievement is T-Bones Chophouse.

Though unfortunately named, the restaurant would not be out of place in a luxury Strip resort. But that's pretty much the deal at Red Rock, the coolest joint in Vegas not on the Strip. Ultra-sleek in red, silver and black, the space is set off by a large oval bar boasting a fine selection of boozes. The dining room, divided by a large, glass covered fireplace, is upscale without losing warmth. The plush booths are cushy enough that you'll have a hard time sliding out after a satisfying meal. Out back, on the patio, another bar serves up plenty of patrons gathered around a fire pit eyeballing the decadent pool area and neighboring Cherry nightclub space. And this steakhouse serves our favorite vegetarian meal, blue cheese stuffed olives in your martini.

The menu offers traditional steak options; fish dishes of salmon, swordfish, scallops, lobster, dover sole, ahi tuna, and whatever is special that night; rotisserie chicken; a pork chop; a veal chop; and for couples, rack of lamb and Chateaubriand. The beef, aged 48 days, is done very well if not perfectly, a nice char outside and of course your choice of temp inside. The Scottish salmon on a recent visit was incredible and large.

Salads, starters and side dishes are equally delicious. The Caesar is fine but the trademark Steakhouse salad is T-Bones' version of the chop, with bacon and a smooth white French dressing. Potato options, one of our favorite things about the classic steakhouse, run the complete gamut from horseradish mash to fries, tots with truffles to a baked sweet potato. Yes to all.

T-Bones success is not altogether surprising. This is a billion dollar resort. But for the residents of the affluent Summerlin community enveloping it, and other people who live out in these burbs, it is something dreamt of for years: a great steakhouse close to home, a consistently awesome meal off the Strip.

9.12.2008

sensi.


The phrase "all over the place" usually does not apply to highly successful restaurants. Many
a restaurant has died a quick death due to a wildly experimental menu, or an attempt to blend too many styles and cuisines into one seamless experience.

The fact that Sensi pulls off that "all over the place" menu, incorporating Italian, Asian and
Indian tastes along with traditional American steak and seafood dishes, is one of two primary factors that make it so unique. The other is the striking decor, which combines carved stone, water, wood and metal into a peaceful and enjoyable setting (No wonder -- it's designed by acclaimed Japanese firm SuperPotato). Imagine if the Flintstones constructed an incredibly upscale day spa, and you're having lunch there. And the food is good.

Executive chef Martin Heierling, born in Germany, raised in New Zealand and educated all
over, gets the credit for the eccentric menu, which is squarely portioned off into categories.
You can stick to Asian, if you like, by starting with Thai chicken and cilantro soup and finishing with miso-glazed sea bass. Or if you're in the mood to sample from the Little Italy section, try a Pizza Margherita from the wood-fired oven with a roasted beet and arugula salad. There's also a strong raw bar from which to order oysters, clams, crab legs or live Santa Barbara prawns. And the beef selections are more than respectable, highlighted by an American Kobe beef tenderloin and a wonderfully tender braised short rib.

For what seems like a pretty fancy joint in Bellagio, still one of the fanciest joints on the Strip,
the service at Sensi is comfortable and friendly. On one of our trips here, we took a break from devouring the short rib to notice that our vegetarian companion was being supplied with an off-the-menu veggie curry dish that turned out to be one of the most delicately delicious things we've tried here. A little touch like that goes a long way in the competitive world of Strip dining.

There are newer restaurants in newer hotels, and there are plenty of more trendy eateries that blend cuisines. But Sensi should not be forgotten. Instead, it should be remembered as a
relaxing retreat from all the noisy hipness.