sensi.

The phrase "all over the place" usually does not apply to highly successful restaurants. Many
a restaurant has died a quick death due to a wildly experimental menu, or an attempt to blend too many styles and cuisines into one seamless experience.

The fact that Sensi pulls off that "all over the place" menu, incorporating Italian, Asian and
Indian tastes along with traditional American steak and seafood dishes, is one of two primary factors that make it so unique. The other is the striking decor, which combines carved stone, water, wood and metal into a peaceful and enjoyable setting (No wonder -- it's designed by acclaimed Japanese firm SuperPotato). Imagine if the Flintstones constructed an incredibly upscale day spa, and you're having lunch there. And the food is good.

Executive chef Martin Heierling, born in Germany, raised in New Zealand and educated all
over, gets the credit for the eccentric menu, which is squarely portioned off into categories.
You can stick to Asian, if you like, by starting with Thai chicken and cilantro soup and finishing with miso-glazed sea bass. Or if you're in the mood to sample from the Little Italy section, try a Pizza Margherita from the wood-fired oven with a roasted beet and arugula salad. There's also a strong raw bar from which to order oysters, clams, crab legs or live Santa Barbara prawns. And the beef selections are more than respectable, highlighted by an American Kobe beef tenderloin and a wonderfully tender braised short rib.

For what seems like a pretty fancy joint in Bellagio, still one of the fanciest joints on the Strip,
the service at Sensi is comfortable and friendly. On one of our trips here, we took a break from devouring the short rib to notice that our vegetarian companion was being supplied with an off-the-menu veggie curry dish that turned out to be one of the most delicately delicious things we've tried here. A little touch like that goes a long way in the competitive world of Strip dining.

There are newer restaurants in newer hotels, and there are plenty of more trendy eateries that blend cuisines. But Sensi should not be forgotten. Instead, it should be remembered as a
relaxing retreat from all the noisy hipness.