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6.01.2009

craftsteak.

On TV, Tom Colicchio comes off stern, maybe a little mean, but always very serious as the head judge on the popular Top Chef competition reality show. In the restaurant world, he’s known as a serious chef and a champion of pure simplicity. You will understand that approach when dining at his Las Vegas outpost, Craftsteak, one of the premier steakhouses in the city.

Craftsteak opened in the MGM Grand in 2002, and although every resort on the Strip is doing and re-doing its version of the classic steakhouse, Colicchio’s remains among the best and most busy. From the entrance, it appears subdued, stuck in the middle of the long stretch of restaurants toward the back of the casino. But inside you’ll find warm, dark surroundings, everything you imagine a traditional steakhouse should be. The bar is comfortable and cool and offers one of the best whisky selections around. The dining room is much bigger than you think, done in shades of brown and gold with slight leather and metal accents. The Craft restaurant empire was born in New York and this restaurant maintains that metropolitan feel.

The service at Craftsteak is exquisite, among the very best we’ve ever encountered, and it really raised the experience to another level. Of course, beef is the thing here. Your best bet is to utilize one of the chef’s Wagyu sampling menus, choosing domestic or Japanese A5 and allowing the kitchen to thrill you. Wagyu is known for its intense marbling and the taste of this cow cannot be compared to the typical domestic restaurant steak you may be used to. We recently tried a 12-ounce Kobe-style Wagyu skirt steak, and when it arrived, cooked perfectly, it seemed like a lot more than 12 ounces. The rich, buttery taste – less beefy – was mind blowing, especially since there was no strange texture. It was hard to believe there was no butter involved in the preparation, but it’s true; remember, at Craftsteak, simplicity is the key.

You don’t have to go exotic here. Two sizes of filet, T-bone, porterhouse, flat iron, ribeye, sirloin strip … they’re all here, roasted or grilled, foreign or domestic. Deliciously salty braised shortribs, prime rib, and seafood options like lobster, prawns or diver sea scallops round out the entrĂ©e selection. Consistency is a given on this menu. The Caesar salad has anchovies. Charcuterie or fresh shellfish are first course options. The side dishes really impress, particularly the garlic and leek potato gratin.

There will never be a shortage of swanky steakhouses competing for your dollar on the Las Vegas Strip; it should be the official cuisine of Sin City. But no matter who lasts the longest or opens the newest joint, remember you’ll never be let down at Craftsteak.

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