frank & fina's cocina.

My pick for best Mexican restaurant off the Strip goes to Frank & Fina's Cocina, a charming neighborhood joint unfortunately located way, way out west, beyond the 215 Beltway off Flamingo Road. Okay, perhaps the location isn't that bad. It's planted in one of the largest retail centers I've ever seen (even if there are plenty of open spots these days), near a Chuck E. Cheese and a Fuddrucker's. But F&F is a family-owned restaurant with about 15 years of history; until a few years ago it was located on Charleston Boulevard, much closer to the city's center. It's thriving out in the 'burbs, having taken over the space next door and expanded into a very comfortable, full-on restaurant with a menu long on tasty, light cuisine and decent drinks.

The standards are available, but F&F excels at crafting delicious vegetarian dishes with perfect spice (try the crispy, addictive veggie taquitos or perhaps some sweet potato enchiladas) and home-style, slow cooked favorites like chile verde, ropa vieja, mole, carnitas and more. On our most recent visit, we were served by Frank himself, who quickly ran down the many specials of the night and made some recommendations. Grilled tilapia tacos were tough to pass on, but I decided to try the simple grilled chicken meal, two juicy pieces with rice and beans. It could have been a little spicier but the loving preparation would shame El Pollo Loco. We also sampled panuchos (pictured), a Yucatan hybrid of tacos and tostadas. Lightly cooked corn tortillas are covered in black beans, tender chicken, smooth avocado, pickled red onion and salty Cotija cheese. The texture of the tortilla is both crispy and chewy, paving the way for each fresh flavor to shine. This simple, bright dish is the perfect example of F&F food, which always seem to rest lighter than the goods at your average Mexican kitchen. I'm not sure how they do it, but I'm grateful.