getting heavy at hedary's.

The closing of an unsung local Lebanese restaurant by the name of Byblos Cafe created something unacceptable to me: a kibbi void.

A mixture of ground beef and lamb, spices, bulgar wheat and pine nuts, then rolled into spheres and baked like meatloaf or deep fried, kibbi is one of my favorite family dishes and one of the best meat preparations in the world of Mediterranean cuisine. When Byblos died, we lost our favorite kibbi joint. In search of satisfaction, we recently made our first and second visits to Hedary's, a longtime local favorite operated by the same family behind the similar Khoury's restaurant. Here at Hedary's, the kibbi balls are massive, moist inside and well spiced, with a little more kick than we're used to. But we welcome the change. Piled on top of tender rice with yogurt sauce, this is a truly filling meal, but not as filling as the Meat Combination. This monster includes one kibbi ball along with Lebanese pork and beef sausages, a grilled beef shish kabob and a dense log of kafta, ground sirloin with spices and onions. This plate could feed a family.

Although the meat dishes center the menu, there is lighter fare at Hedary's, including decent hummus and babaganoosh, lentil soup, brick oven pizza and large salads chock full of fresh veggies, ripe tomatoes and cucumbers and herb/oil dressings. Hedary's version of falafil is one of the more delicate tastes on a generally overpowering menu, moist and flavorful and appropriate inside the chewy, fluffy pita bread that's made fresh every day. The odd flaming cheese appetizer, halloume, was like a Mediterranean version of fried mozzarella sticks, matching up nicely with a cold Almaza beer.

Affordable, friendly, and serving generous proportions, Hedary's isn't the most refined restaurant in its genre. But the family is sticking to its recipes and that's a move that has paid off. Until something better comes along, this is my new Vegas kibbi.

INTERVIEW: Oscar Goodman

MenuVegas' very first interview is with the Happiest Mayor in the Universe, Oscar Goodman.

You've been in Las Vegas for a long time. How have you seen the dining landscape change over the years?

Oscar Goodman: I've been here forever. I came here in 1964, and back in the old days the only place to get a steak was Bob Taylor's Ranch House. And you had to psyche yourself up for the 20-minute drive to get out there. It was the only game in town.

And now you can get anything, anywhere, anytime.

Absolutely. When you look at statistics from the Las Vegas Convention and Visitors Authority, it shows empirically that as for why people come to Las Vegas, number one, they come to shop, and the second reason is for food.

You grew up in Philadelphia. Ever get cravings for a great cheesesteak?

You know what I miss most is my Philadelphia pizza. I miss it every day.

What's Philly pizza like?

I can't figure it out. It just tastes better. I do miss my cheesesteaks from Pat's and other places I used to go to.

You can't find any pizza in Vegas like back home?

Well one thing I can do is call my friends over at Metro Pizza, and if I tell them about a place in Philadelphia, they'll call that place and ask how they make their pizza, and then they'll try to do it that way.

If instead of being mayor of Las Vegas today you were still a defense lawyer representing certain clients...

Reputedly.

Right, those guys. Where would those guys eat and hang out today?

That's a good question. That wasn't that long ago. But where they would go to have their business meetings, so to speak, would be the back room at Piero's, which is still around today.

Where's the downtown Vegas power lunch spot?

The Triple George Grill is very strong. Another place that's picking up is Hennessey's, on the corner of Fremont Street at the old Race Rock. Those are the two spots. But then you also have Chicago Joe's, still going strong. They have such a presence downtown. You want to know a real sleeper, one of my favorites? The Philly cheesesteak place on Fremont Street. It's an old greasy spoon, frequented only by myself and the homeless.

Do you eat out often? Do you like to try new restaurants?

I'm a man of habits. I have my places I go to. I love my wife's cooking the best. She's the best short order cook I've ever seen. She can come home dead tired and whip up a meal in a half-hour better than any place on the Strip. But we usually eat at ethnic places. We'll go to Fellini's for Italian, Hedary's for Mediterranean, Diamond China for Chinese and Lotus of Siam for Thai food. I recently had to give a speech at The Hotel at Mandalay Bay and I walked through the shopping area there (Mandalay Place), and they had some restaurants in there that looked phenomenal.

I don't want to ask you this but I have to: who mixes the best martini in town?

I do.