hash house a go go.

By now people in and out of Las Vegas are aware of Hash House A Go Go, it's "twisted farm food" concept and giganto portions. (There's one in San Diego, too.) My favorite things about this busy, casual restaurant on West Sahara are the bar and the fact that it's the best hangover brunch in town. How can I make this claim? Is there another eatery in Vegas that actually lists on the menu anything as specific as the "O'Hare of the Dog," 24 ounces of Budweiser and a side of bacon? No. No there isn't.

It's open for lunch and dinner as well, but mornings (late mornings) are when the menu shines brightest. There are some interesting "hash" options on the menu, such as roasted chicken with asparagus and rosemary, smoked salmon with with cream cheese and scallions, and homemade meatloaf with smoked mozzarella. All the varieties I've sampled are delicious and beyond filling, but be warned: I use the quotey marks because it's not a purists' hash; it's actually chunks of crispy potatoes, eggs, and whatever else you like. Still good, just not really hash.

Another brunch favorite is the chicken and waffles (pictured), a monstrous plate of crispy fried bird atop equally crispy, buttery waffles, which are floating on a pile of burned onion stalks and sweet maple reduction. Scrambles, like the hash only with the taters on the side, will get you, too, especially the one with bacon, avocado, onion and Swiss cheese. I'm sure the regular waffles, French toast and pancakes are good, but it's too hard to avoid the more savory options, such as the pork tenderloin eggs Benedict. Everything comes with a really good, really fresh biscuit on the side and strawberry jam.

Until I try the infamous make-your-own bar at Kerry Simon's Palms Place brunch, Hash House is the home for my favorite Bloody Mary. Peppery beyond belief, tasty enough not to need anything better than well vodka, it comes with a couple jalapeno-stuffed olives, a baby pickle and a lonely green bean. If it doesn't cure you, go for the beer and bacon.