agave.

When it comes to Mexican food in Vegas, there are two types of restaurants: places worth going back to and places that aren't. Even though I've had lots of food and drink at Agave in Summerlin over the last few years, I'm afraid it falls into the latter category.

Despite what any critic writes or what any foodie snob will tell you, there is plenty of worthwhile Mexican food to be found in Las Vegas. Some of the most convenient, affordable, fun and interesting food on the Strip is being served at Border Grill, Dos Caminos, Diego, Isla and other restaurants, and there is no shortage of awesome hole-in-the-wall taquerias scattered about the valley. Of course, there is a powerful presence of run-of-the-mill, beans-and-rice, please-the-gringos restaurants as well. But it's pretty easy to cut through the boring (Macayo's) and discover the fantastic (Frank & Fina's).

Agave is somewhere in between. It's hard to believe this restaurant is run by the same company behind the splendid Vintner Grill just a short distance east on West Charleston Boulevard. Vintner's menu is playful continental with a Mediterranean flair; Agave's menu seems to grow less impressive every time I visit. A recent lunch on the patio started unfortunately with too-sweet, no-heat salsas, but the braised beef taquito appetizer made up for it. A gigantic machaca tostada was a massive salad atop a mound of beans and tender shredded beef, and the chicken torta also was too big to finish, a well-spiced grilled chicken breast swimming in plenty of guacamole and braced by a decent, baguette-like sandwich roll. It was filling, but far from satisfying.

I've eaten just about everything here, from fajitas to carnitas to tiny tacos to seafood, but still, the best thing one could order is a drink. All cocktails are made fresh (and a little too slow, if you ask me) and I've never sampled one I didn't like. The Tlaquepaque, with its fresh raspberries and Casa Noble tequila, remains the only blended margarita I've ever enjoyed. The house margarita is made with Herradura El Jimador and Patron Citronge, and the Jalisco Martini, which we just tried recently, blends honeydew melon and Midori with tequila for a smooth, crisp treat. Agave serves over 100 different tequilas, and you can taste by flight if you like. With its festive vibe and splashy pinkness, Agave could be a great party bar. Could be. But for now, it remains a fine place for a summer margarita with mediocre-at-best food.