shh. nittaya's secret kitchen.

Nittaya's Secret Kitchen is, I believe, poised to become the next great neighborhood restaurant in Vegas. I believe this because the food is really good, but here are some other reasons:

1. Thai food is still pretty hot right now. We all agree there is very good Thai food to be found in Las Vegas. And this chef is cooking her native cuisine, and she's already been operating two more straight-ahead Thai-Chinese restaurants, so we know she knows what she's doing.

2. Nittaya's is on the corner of Lake Mead and Rampart. This neighborhood and the people in it are getting a little older, but there are still plenty of folks nearby that will get behind a restaurant with great, unique food.

3. The owners of Nittaya's have very wisely placed the word "tapas" on their menu and signage. It doesn't really matter if these tasty small plates are tapas or if they're not. It only matters if they're tasty. They are.

The "world famous" spinach salad (pictured) already has been written and talked about, partly because they push it so hard at Nittaya's and partly because it's delicious. Individual spinach leaves are fried tempura-style until crispy and piled on a plate with what is basically a larb salad, ground chicken, veggies and cashews in a spicy lime dressing. Stack some of this tangy goodness on these crazy, crunchy greens and you've got yourself a signature dish. But the truth is, of the many dishes I've sampled at Nittaya's, this is one of the least inspiring. And it's really good.

Nittaya's lettuce wraps are the best version I've tasted, and curry puffs are another great appetizer, a flavorful explosion wrapped inside a delicate pastry. While you're eating fried green things, try the panko-breaded avocado. The two other salad options I've enjoyed both blow the fun spinach dish away: beef flank steak salad, which also incorporates that spicy lime dressing over seared beef and fresh garden veggies, and the must-have ginger chicken salad, tender meat, red onions, cilantro and peanuts absolutely drenched in ginger. It's a mouth shocker, and very addictive.

Next time I dine here, I need to get at the entrees section. The wonderful curries and rice dishes have prevented me from sampling these main plates. (I did enjoy a simple plate of grilled chicken thighs with a sweet chili sauce, and some decent spicy catfish.) The green curry, full of basil, was impressive, until we got to the red stuff, spicy and coconut creamy. The pineapple fried rice here is served in a half-pineapple, only adding to the sweetness. It's great, but I also like the spicy basil and green curry fried rice, the latter of which is stacked with Chinese broccoli, onions and egg and takes on a new texture thanks to the coconut in the curry.

Nittaya's is a small place, and it will need to grow. A chef who is doing these things is cooking for herself, to have fun, and to building something. The neighborhood will appreciate that, and they will keep coming back. Different is good, and we could use some more of that around here.